Appalachian Trail, Days 38-40
Resupplying in Merion.
Day 38
Start: Trimpi Shelter (524.6)
Stop: Mount Rogers Visitor Center (534.6)
Miles: 10.4
Elevation Gain: 2126 feet
Total Miles Hiked: 565.86
After the night hike, I was slow to get packed and get out of camp in the morning. Things were off to a rough start immediately when I realized I left my trekking poles at the shelter only after climbing the steep and annoying path back up to the AT. I’d be catching a shuttle into the town of Marien to resupply, and I had to hustle to make it down to the trailhead in time. I was doubtful I could make it for the first few miles. But with town as a powerful motivating force, I quickened my pace and started catching up to the people who left camp earlier. Sure enough, I arrived at Partnership Shelter a half hour early.
Now, Partnership Shelter isn’t just any old AT shelter. There’s a shower, and dumpsters, and it’s right near a major road into town, and you can get pizza delivered right to the shelter, right to the shelter! What an unbelievable amenity. My friends were already talking about having a pizza party after we returned from town. I was originally thinking I might get a bunk at a hostel in Marion, but not wanting to miss the fun, I decided to do a quick in and out trip instead. I hopped off the shuttle with a small group at the laundromat. We stuffed our dirty clothes into two washing machines and took over every spare outlet in the building. Then we all scattered in different directions to do chores during the wait. I walked up the road to Wal-Mart and Ingles to buy food for the trail ahead. Moving into my second month on the AT, it seemed like the spring weather was clinging on into early June, with days of rain and cold nights. Here, in town, it feels like summer, and I noticed the relief when I entered the cool, conditioned air of the grocery store.
I felt rushed and stressed, making sure I had everything taken care of in time to catch the last bus to the shelter. Back at the laundromat, I tried to determine where exactly to even catch the bus. Apparently, you could call to have them pick you up, but I got the answering machine with every number I tried. We were also still waiting on one or two people to come back and grab their clothes. I knew we were running out of time, but no one seemed to be in any rush. The time to catch the last bus came and went, and not wanting to have to figure out a shuttle or try to get a hitch back, I decided to just stay at the hostel in town as I originally planned. This would at least give me some time to take care of everything I needed to and ease my anxiety a little.
I got a bunk at the Merry Inn, above the outfitter in town. I took a leisurely shower and cut my bangs in a spacious bathroom with a claw-foot tub. I felt refreshed in the warm afternoon sunlight. Scooby returned from his errands and, standing at the top of the staircase, called down to someone. He was gifting his old quilt to Fireball, waiting below. He invited me to join them across the street at the pub for drinks on the patio. The frozen strawberry daiquiri had me feeling blissed out. Sure, there was a bit of FOMO and speculation about the pizza party happening up the hill at the shelter, but I was also content right here, sipping drinks around the table with friends.
Schoolhouse trail magic.
Morning meadows.
Day 39
Start: Mount Rogers Visitor Center (534.6)
Stop: Reed Creek Campsite (552.6)
Miles: 18.5
Elevation Gain: 3613 feet
Total Miles Hiked: 584.34
It’s Friday the 13th! I waited around for the morning bus back to the trailhead and was back at Partnership Shelter ready to hike around 11 am. There were some lovely pastures this morning, with swaying grasses on sloping hillsides. In the early afternoon, I passed an old one-room schoolhouse with trail magic inside. I stopped inside for a few minutes. The chalkboard was covered with tags from the hikers who had passed through, and I grabbed some Oreos from the bin as a snack. From there, it was a mellow hike down into the valley. I crossed over some train tracks and then walked along a boardwalk passing over some marshy grass. Soon, the trail spit me out near a highway interchange scattered with a few gas stations. The transition into a suburban landscape was at odds with my peaceful pastoral afternoon.
I said hi to Hedgehog sitting outside the first gas station, but I was locked in on the second, which had an attached Mexican restaurant. I sat down at a table by myself and was immediately granted a basket of tortilla chips and a bowl of salsa. The combo plate that I ordered wasn’t spectacular, but you can’t beat the convenience of being able to walk right off the trail and into a restaurant. About halfway through my plate, Fireball, Hedgehog, and Pizza Knees came in and joined me at the table. They helped me with the tortilla chips and ordered a few things of their own. I looked on with envy as the waitress brought out a bowl filled with fried ice cream. Thankfully, they invited us all to share.
After lunch, the four of us set off together, crossing the highway underpass and navigating the infrastructure before disappearing back onto the wooded trail. We ascended through a grassy ranch with cows grazing, and it made me remember walking through the pastures of the Alta Via 1, but this time without the serene chorus of cowbells as a backdrop. The meadows transitioned to a climb along a wooded ridge line. Notably, we passed a sign marking the completion of our first quarter of the trail. The final few miles to camp brought a rain shower that broke the heat of the afternoon. Fireball was saying how much the pattern reminded her of Florida.
Getting closer, we could smell campfire smoke mixed with the foggy evening air, spooky vibes for this Friday the 13th evening. We passed the campsites first, little dens scattered between the rhododendron bushes. Then we saw the group that arrived earlier gathered around the fire ring. I put my water bottle filled with wine in the river to chill before setting up camp. Fireball and I set up near each other in one of the small clearings. Afterwards, we wandered back to the fire to make dinner and hang out. Once the fire was down to embers, we disbanded to our little areas for the night.
Post-lunch pasture hiking.
Reaching milestones!
Day 40
Start: Reed Creek Campsite (552.6)
Stop: Chestnut Knob Shelter (570.1)
Miles: 18.9
Elevation Gain: 5114 feet
Total Miles Hiked: 603.27
After packing up camp, I navigated through the thicket of rhododendron and blooming mountain laurel along Reed Creek. In a morning surprise, I got a call from Leslie, and I talked about how the trail has been treating me so far and preparations for their thru-hike of the Continental Divide Trail coming up at the end of the month. This day would pass through many different parcels of farmland with barbed wire fences. At each fence, there would be a tall a-frame ladder, allowing you to cross to the other side. The trail meandered up and down through pasture, revealing the beautiful pastoral landscape during the climbs. I passed a collage of wildflowers shooting up through the long swaying grass.
In the afternoon, there was a big climb up to Chestnut Knob Shelter. It was kind of a slog. I did manage to get enough cell reception to listen to the Phillies game, which was a treat. It was hot, and I was daydreaming about how much I would love to be at the game with a cold beer in my hand instead of hiking. Nearing the top, the slope became more gradual, and the trees gave way to a high meadow. Turning around, I could see a beautiful view of the hills that I had just hiked through.
Finally, I reached Chestnut Knob Shelter, perched on a large grassy bald with an epic view down into Burke’s Garden. My friends were densely packed in at the picnic table, and I was instructed to set up as part of their tent circle. The shelter itself was pretty interesting, a converted fire warden’s cabin that was a funky mash-up of rough-hewn stone walls topped with asymmetrical windows and a rooftop in a mid-century style, painted in burnt orange. Too bad that it was way too smelly for me to opt for one of the bunks inside over the comfort of my tent. I made dinner at the picnic table, as my friends played dice and smoked weed in the windy evening twilight. It got chilly once the sun passed below the horizon, and I added a few more stakes to make sure my tent stays upright through the night.
Burke’s Garden sunset.